Identification

Title

Improvements in spectral wave modeling in tidal inlet seas

Abstract

The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the starting point of the investigation, performed reasonably well for measured storm conditions, but three aspects required further attention. First, over the near-horizontal tidal flats, the computed ratio of integral wave height over water depth showed an apparent upper limit using the default depth-limited wave breaking formulation and breaker parameter, resulting in an underprediction of wave heights. This problem has been largely solved using a new breaker formulation. The second aspect concerns wave-current interaction, specifically the wave age effect on waves generated in ambient current, and a proposed enhanced dissipation in negative current gradients. Third, the variance density of lower-frequency wind waves from the North Sea penetrating through the inlets into the Wadden Sea was underpredicted. This was improved by reducing the bottom friction dissipation relative to that of the default model. After a combined calibration, these improvements have resulted in a relative bias reduction in Hm0 from -3% to -1%, in Tm₋₁,₀ from -7% to -3%, and in Tm₀₁ from -6% to -2%, and consistent reductions in scatter, compared to the 2006 default model.

Resource type

document

Resource locator

Unique resource identifier

code

http://n2t.net/ark:/85065/d7h995xg

codeSpace

Dataset language

eng

Spatial reference system

code identifying the spatial reference system

Classification of spatial data and services

Topic category

geoscientificInformation

Keywords

Keyword set

keyword value

Text

originating controlled vocabulary

title

Resource Type

reference date

date type

publication

effective date

2016-01-01T00:00:00Z

Geographic location

West bounding longitude

East bounding longitude

North bounding latitude

South bounding latitude

Temporal reference

Temporal extent

Begin position

End position

Dataset reference date

date type

publication

effective date

2012-08-03T00:00:00Z

Frequency of update

Quality and validity

Lineage

Conformity

Data format

name of format

version of format

Constraints related to access and use

Constraint set

Use constraints

Limitations on public access

None

Responsible organisations

Responsible party

contact position

OpenSky Support

organisation name

UCAR/NCAR - Library

full postal address

PO Box 3000

Boulder

80307-3000

email address

opensky@ucar.edu

web address

http://opensky.ucar.edu/

name: homepage

responsible party role

pointOfContact

Metadata on metadata

Metadata point of contact